The English Pennine Way - Day 18 & 19

Days 18 and 19 are the last two days of my Pennine Way walk. I cross the remote and windswept Cheviots and finally cross over the border and into Scotland. It was a cold walk and headed into very strong winds. I meet a soldier in a single bivouac in the middle of nowhere, and he offers me a cup of tea! My stay at Uswayford Farmhouse, a sad place, with a warm dry bed for the night and a good hearty breakfast. I give “The Cheviot” a miss, it was covered in mist and no view anyway. I arrive at Kirk Yetholm and go straight to the Border Hotel to claim my free “Wainright” pint.

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The English Pennine Way - Day 16 & 17

Leaving Once Brewed, ”clinical” hostel I took to Hadrians Wall again and followed it eastwards before crossing over it at Rapishaw Gap to head north again. Through Wark Forest, a sterile, long journey through pines. A break at Horneystead Farm for tea and scones, served by a little old lady with a strikingly refined accent. The pleasant village of Bellingham is reached where it was time to stock up for a long trip over the next few days. The following day was really wet, the worst I’d had so far, with cold mist and rain. I got lost in the mist but used my compass to find my way back on track again. Finished the day with an awesome meal at Byrness to make up for it!!

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The English Pennine Way - Day 14 & 15

This section from Garrigill to Once Brewed covers 46 km of the Pennine Way. I had planned to stop for a two-day rest at Alston, a market town, but decided to carry on after just one. I enjoyed the Gala day there. I walked the tree-lined banks of River South Tyne occasionally, which was pleasant. I stumbled through wet tussock, which wasn’t pleasant! Across moorland again and some nice flower-strewn, stone-walled fields. A pub stop at Greenhead for a ploughman’s lunch and a couple of beers. Passed Thirlwell Castle and arrived at the magnificent Hadrian’s Wall for the first time in my life. Finally, getting VERY grumpy with the warden at the “Once Brewed YHA” who tried to turn me away in favour of guests who had arrived in cars and coaches. I was having none of it!!

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The English Pennine Way - Days 6 - 7

Days 6 and 7. I had a rest day in Malham mulling over whether I should quit and go home and like my wounds or carry on. A happy, surprise encounter changed my mind and decided me to carry on. From Malham, the PW crossed limestone country, passed some “water sinks”, an unusual lake, across some moorland, up a very large hill and down to the pleasant little village of Horton-in-Ribblesdale. Read on!

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The English Pennine Way - Day 4

Day 4. The next part of my journey on the Pennine Way took me from Hebden Bridge, an old industrial township, through the beautiful Calder Valley. It carried me passed the remains of an old farmhouse and to Ponden Hall, both said to be the inspirations for Emily Bronte’s novel “Wuthering Heights.” I meet an old couple running one of the remotest shops in England, that sold everything imaginable. Blisters, blisters sadly begin to spoil the walk

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The English Pennine Way - Day 1

The Pennine Way is a National Trail in England, with a wee bit just over the border in Scotland. The trail runs 432 km from Edale, in the northern Derbyshire Peak District, north through the Yorkshire Dales and the Northumberland National Park and ends at Kirk Yetholm, in Scotland. It is a tough walk, and 85% of the people that start it, give up after 2 days. It took me 18 days to complete. I kept a daily journal and am transcribing it, verbatim, as I was young, raw and slightly naive in my writing then, which I think will be pleasant and “real” to the reader. I’m dividing my blogs into daily ”lumps” as I progressed slowly, and painfully, along this wonderful journey.

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