The English Pennine Way - Day 16 & 17 — Long Walks, Organics & African Stuff

Day 16 - Once Brewed to Bellingham

Leaving Once Brewed hostel, I returned to Hadrian's Wall, where an eerie, grey mist hung low over it and slowly lifted as I walked. This section would take me to Bellingham, some 28 km away.

The walk was still very steep climbing, up and down, just what I needed first thing in the morning! NOT! The wall itself seemed to be in a much better condition than yesterday's section. As a bonus, no one else was around, so I was able to enjoy it all to myself.

A little later, Crag Lough, a small lake, came into view. Its waters lay beneath the cliffs of Highshield Crag, with trees clinging precariously to its steep, rugged sides. The path was very close to its edge at this point.

**Hadrian's Wall, looking back at Crag Lough & Highshield Crag © Duncan Smith**

**Hadrian’s Wall, just passed Crag Lough and Highshield Crag. © Duncan Smith**

**Hadrian's Wall at Rapishaw Gap. © Duncan Smith**

Feeling warmer now, I soon reached Rapishaw Gap. Here, my walk along the walI ended and I crossed over Hadrian's Wall through a gate, to head north. The walk along Hadrians Wall had been pretty much west to east up until then. I couldn't help but keep looking back at the Wall as I walked across the heather moorland. It was such a fantastic experience, and I would hopefully return one day to spend more time here. Maybe walk its whole length, end to end.

It turned very sunny and hot for the rest of the day. After easy and pleasant walking I approached the pine trees of Wark Forest. Once inside the dark, oppressive interior, I pressed on quickly. The track was nice and firm to walking on. I spotted the odd pine cone that seemed to have been eaten by crossbills or red squirrels.

Soon covering the 8 km of track, I came out into the open again to feel the sun's warmth once more. I came upon Honeystead Farm 1.5 km later. They offered tea and scones, so I stopped for a break. Some other Pennine "Wayers" were also there that I'd bumped into a few times before on my journey, which was nice.

The place was a bit bizarre, as it was literally in the middle of nowhere and quite unexpected. The sweet old lady running it had a refined accent, which sounded out of place with her remote surroundings. Sadly, her small home looked a bit poverty-stricken. She kept lots of horses, one of which had a huge moustache, which looked false! However, it was a very welcome break to my journey.

From here it was easy walking across rolling, green, lush meadowland. My fellow walkers and I passed Shitlingotn Hall to reach Shitlington Crags. Here we stopped to enjoy a beautiful view north towards our destination, at Bellingham.

It was a scorching hot day, and my feet burned on the tarmac. It was quite a large village, surrounded by beautiful countryside. I dived into the nearest cafe for something to eat and drink, which was most welcome.

Bellingham YHA was a simple wooden hut and felt like a "proper" hostel, unlike the four-star, clinical, hotel-like one at Once Brewed. It has since been sadly demolished but replaced by an equally beautiful converted stone barn.

Bellingham was a bustling community with plenty of shops. It was also the last place to do my final stock-take before reaching journey's end at Kirk Yetholm, 72 km away. It would take me three more days to get there, so I needed to ensure I had enough food and drink, particularly so for the last 48 km. I was told that last section, crossing the remote Cheviot Hills, might be the most dangerous one on the whole of the Pennine Way. The weather on the hills can suddenly change from a beautiful, warm, sunny day to mist, freezing cold and driving rain. It was easy to get disorientated when it was like this and get lost. There were no well-defined tracks either, which didn’t help, and without proper equipment and a compass, it could mean life or death. That cheered me up no end, so I made sure I had enough supplies to carry me through for five days, not just the three. I went to the local pub, the “Rose and Crown”, and downed a few pints before crashing into bed.

Walked 28.4 km in 6½ hours

Day 17 - Bellingham to Byrness

I left Bellingham in mist and drizzle, which didn't bode well, and gradually worsened to heavy rain. Waterproofs on, but not leggings, I hate walking in them. It's like wading through thick, long grass all the time and drags me back.

I began by taking a detour off the Way to see the Hareshaw Linn waterfall. It put extra kilometres on my day, but well worth it. There was a well-paved track through pleasant woods, and I wasn't disappointed. The path didn't re-join the Way, so I had to double back and start again.

I crossed a LOT of peat and heather and, with the heavy rain, it got very wet underfoot. What had started to be a sound path, soon turned into a squelchy mess.

With the thick mist, I got a bit lost coming off Deer Play hill. There was a PW sign, albeit a very indistinct one, which pointed north-east, instead of the north-west, which I later found was the correct direction. I did see plenty of what I took to be marker posts, but they weren't. I'm not sure what they represented. I went quite a way off course and crossed Troughend Common by mistake.

Sensing I was going in the wrong direction, I stopped. I walked to the highest ground I could see, in order to get my bearings. Fortunately, the mist lifted just enough for me to glimpses Lord's Shaw and Padon hills, and a road running between the two. I took a compass bearing between them both and headed in that direction.

An hour later, I was relieved to pick up the Pennine Way at the exact spot on my bearing, where it cut across the road. Lesson learnt. Always carry a compass, know how to use it, especially in mist and rain!!

From then on the Way was relatively easy to follow, along wire fences and stone walls. However, the journey was very tedious. I began to hate it. The drudge, the rain, the cold, the mist, the boring heather..... Ugh!!

I reached Redesdale Forest and stopped to wring out my socks, they were soaking. I put on a dry tee shirt and warm sweater. As the rain had eased I was glad to take off my waterproof jacket. I had some food and drink and began to feel a bit human again.

The walk through the forest was easy enough, but it felt such a dead place. Nothing stirred; it was a wilderness and seemed to go on for an eternity.

Six and a half kilometres later I arrived at Blakehopeburnhaugh Farm! An incredibly long name for such a small place in the middle of nowhere. Apparently, "blake" was a common name in Northumberland; "hope" means a "sheltered valley"; "burn" means "a hill or stream" and "Haugh" means "flat land beside a river". I wonder who thought that one up!?

I had fight through long wet grass by the River Rede, then a little stretch along another forest track until reaching Byrness, at last. I hastened to a cafe where I ordered six cups of tea, sausage egg and chips, and felt a LOT better!!!

The Byrness hostel was very cheery and simple. Better still, it had an excellent drying room which I quickly filled with all my poor, sodden clothes.

Walked 25.6 km in 6½ hours

Go back to Days 14 & 15 here. https://duncangoeswalking.squarespace.com/blog-pages/the-english-pennine-way-days-14-15

Follow me on my final two days of the Pennine Way walk, here.

https://duncangoeswalking.squarespace.com/blog-pages/the-english-pennine-way-days-18-amp-1