The English Pennine Way - Day 4 — Long Walks, Organics & African Stuff

Hebden Bridge to Ponden Hall

I got up about 6.15 am after a reasonable night's sleep under canvas. The sun was just rising through the morning mist over Hebden Bridge and Callis Wood. The others weren't stirring, so I made myself a cup of tea, to wake myself up, and had a bowl of muesli. Eventually, old Stan stepped out of his tent, bleary-eyed and not at all "with it". Then Steve stirred and the others eventually followed. I packed up, and was away by 8 am, while the others were still having their first brew-up.

The walk into the Calder Valley was easy, but it was quite a physical struggle up the other side, and on passed Dew Scout Farm.

I followed Wainwright* as close as I could, as the next section was very tricky. However, I still managed to get a bit lost before I got to Popple’s Farm. I got back on the right track and up a gentle slope to Pry Hill on a beautiful grassy path.

*Wainwright here, refers to Alfred Wainwright, who was a British fell-walker, guidebook author and illustrator. His book, the "Pennine Way Companion," was a “go-to” book for anyone taking on the Pennine Way in those days. He was the author of lots of other English walking guides and most were both hand-written and hand-illustrated, with meticulous attention to detail. When I finished walking the PW, I was able to claim a pint of beer at the "Border Hotel", in Scotland, if I could show that I had bought and used his guide and that I had completed the walk in one go! That was incentive enough for me!!

All my old blisters were hurting and two new ones, like angry limpets, popped up on my heel to join the rest! Ouch, whinge, cringe!

The Colden Valley fell away in front of me, from left to right. A beautifully wooded area with the Colden Water stream running through. A very steep climb down and hard struggles up again on the other side. It was a very well-marked path from here on.

At Colden, a very welcome sign pointed the way to hot/cold drinks etc. at High Gate Farm. One of those little oases with absolutely everything for sale, from plastic teapots to Friar's Balsam; Kendal Mint Cake to dog biscuits. It is Britain’s most remote shop, open 14 hours a day, 364 days a year.

**May Stocks, owner of High Gate Farm shop.**

There was a lovely old couple running the shop, both full of humour and fun, and acted like two naughty school children. May, the lady serving me, was most kind. The only thing I hadn’t got in my pack, was a plastic mug. However, she hadn’t got one for sale. 'Hang on' she said 'I've got an idea!' She disappeared to the back of the shop, and a couple of minutes later returned with a half-pint plastic mug, which she gave to me free. She explained that she got it from a 50 kg bag of milk substitute, which she feeds to her calves. Very handy. Apparently, each bag contained one of these, so she had quite a number.

More importantly, they had a nice pot of tea! A pint of that later, I was feeling much refreshed. I bought one or two essentials and stashed them away in my pack and moved on with a much lighter step.

I'd spent 40 minutes there and headed up to Long High Top Farm and eventually across Heptonstall Moor.

In the distance, I could see Lower Gorple Reservoir to the left and, even more importantly, the first sight of the "Pack Horse Inn", to the right. It was an hour before I got there via the last up-and-down hurdle of Graining Water. I arrived at the Inn at 11.30, but they didn't open until 12. The landlord was busy hosing down his windows, and I joked with him to hose me down too! It was a scorcher. He kindly popped into the pub and brought me out a pint of shandy, to keep me going until his doors opened. It didn't touch the sides. No sign of the others at 12.30.

A marvellous lunch there of gammon ham, eggs and chips, served, sadly, by a rather surly landlady?! The others were still not in sight when I left.

My blisters really were hell now. Every pace I took hurt really badly. It's also tremendously hot, which didn't help. More whining! Poor me! The climb up towards the first reservoir was on a hard track, killing on the feet.

The Reservoir Lodge, being completely rebuilt by the look of it, had a wonderful view over the water and would make a magnificent hostel.

Across the cobbled dam separating the two Walshaw Dean reservoirs, left, along the side of the higher one. I saw three guys I'd occasionally been bumping into en route. They were having a cook-up.

At about the middle of the higher reservoir, the path shot off north-east over the top Within Heights (Brontë country). Once on top of the Heights, the moor descended towards the River Worth, with a another beautiful view.

Eventually "Top Withins" came into view, the ruins of an old farmhouse, near Haworth, the inspiration for the location of the Earnshaw family house in "Wuthering Heights", by Emily Brontë. A couple of girls were sitting on a bench there, surrounded by sheep, patiently hoping for a tit-bit.

From here I descended, painfully, towards Ponden Reservoir and finally Ponden Hall, where I decided to stay for the night. My blisters were now excruciating, so I could hardly walk. Bleat, bleat.

Ponden Hall is a historic house near Haworth, with many connections with the literary Brontë sisters. The house itself was widely accepted as the inspiration for not only “Wuthering Heights” but also for Anne Brontë's novel, “The Tenant of Wildfell Hall”.

I pitched my tent next to the river, ate, cleaned my boots and went to the Hall for some tea. Tomorrow I would like to get as far as Earby if I can, it's only 19.3 km. I can do my laundry there and get my poor old feet fixed, I hope!

I crashed out at 8 pm, knackered, it had been a scorching day, so I want to get up at 4 am for an early start to avoid the heat.

Walked 18.5 km in 8 hours

Back to Day 3 - https://duncangoeswalking.squarespace.com/blog-pages/the-english-pennine-way-day-3

Onwards to Day 5 - https://duncangoeswalking.squarespace.com/blog-pages/the-english-pennine-way-day-5