The English Pennine Way - Day 5 — Long Walks, Organics & African Stuff

Day 5 - Ponden Hall to Malham

Midges, bloody midges, millions of them! I woke at 4 am determined to get an early start to beat the heat of the day. It's been too hot to walk lately! Trouble was, the midges had already been up an hour before. I was convinced that were waiting for me to surface. They were very annoying and bit me furiously. I had a hasty breakfast and decamped to be away by 5.20, and made excellent time in the cool, cool air.

My blisters, which I’d burst, were well padded his time so didn't seem to hurt as much. As I walked, they eased off. I’d dosed them with Friar’s Balsam last night, which seemed to help.

Quickly passed Ponden Reservoir and across the Colne Road, up Deep Clough and eventually on to Bare Hill (aptly named). From here, and all across Ickornshaw Moor, it was very misty, wet and cool. Quite a refreshing change from the last 3 days, and I'm glad I started earlier today.

**Walking the moorlands. © Duncan Smith**

The curlews, obviously with chicks around, were particularly nervous at my presence and wheeled around me, calling plaintively. The odd grouse family were also forced to leave the safety of their cover when I approached, flying low over the heather and clumps of cotton grass. An interesting walk but one I would not like to do in adverse weather conditions.

Eventually I got over the tops of the moor and began to descend towards Ickornshaw itself. A tricky left/right between some grouse huts and passed ruined an old houses, to reach the A6068 road. I had planned stop here last night.

I quickly moved on towards Lothersdale, another 3 miles away. Crossing green fields with plenty of cows and little else. A stop at the post office at Lothersdale, which served supplies and the ubiquitous cups of tea. So one pint later I journeyed on. I met up with the three lads I’d seen before and we journeyed elastic-band style, together as far as East Marton, sitting on the banks of the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. I found a pub here, the Cross Keys Inn, and ordered a lovely Ploughman’s lunch and a pint of beer. There were many smart, pin-stripe-suited office workers there having lunch. As I was incredibly smelly, even to me, and carrying my whole world in a large backpack, I went outside to eat, in the sun!

I caught up with my journal and decided to try and make it Malham that day. There was a YHA there where I could have a nice shower and, best of all, a proper bed for a good night's sleep.

**The Leeds & Liverpool canal, East Marton**

After leaving the pub, I followed the Leeds and Liverpool canal for a short distance before crossing fields towards Gargrave. A lot of horrible, little bits of fields with wire fences, new plantations etc. all made going very confusing. Also, the distinctive path of previous miles often disappeared across some of the meadows. However, I eventually got to Gargrave about 3.15 pm, having walked 17.2 miles from Ponden Hall.

At Gargrave, I caught up with two of the lads I’d met earlier. One of them had buggered his knee when something snapped inside. He decided to catch a bus to Malham with his companion. So, from the original group of four of them that I’d met, only two were left. The other group of five I’d also met, one had dropped out too. However, I still plodded (hobbled) on, but for how long?

From Gargrave, I headed northwest’ish along West Street to meet some old ladies by a canal bridge. They were discussing who should take a picture of their group. I offered to take it for them, and got lovely pictures of many smiley faces!

Having got off the stony lane I was walking, I promptly got lost again crossing some fields. So, I climbed to higher ground to take a bearing and spotted a distinctive road landmark to aim for. Arriving there I found I was about to 2 miles off-track. I was very cross, as my feet hurt and I still had 5 miles to reach Malham.

I got onto the PW again, near Newfield Hall, and the path followed the meandering river Aire. A very pleasant walk through parkland alongside this clean, shallow river.

About 1 mile from Malham a most beautiful view opened up before me. The magnificent limestone hills around Malham village, and particularly Gordale Scar acted as a huge backdrop to tiny green, stone-walled fields. The river Aire, a silver trace, added to the beauty of the scene. The white, limestone hills were highlighted even more by a darkening sky behind them and the setting sun over my shoulder lit them beautifully. It was a stunning sight and well worth my 26 mile walk that day.

**The beautiful view while approaching Malham - © Duncan Smith**

I finally arrived at the YHA (#Malham) at 6.45 pm and booked in just in time to catch the evening meal. I booked in for two nights, to have a rest day and nurse my poor old wounds!

Walked 26 miles in 13+ hours

Back to Day 4 - https://duncangoeswalking.squarespace.com/blog-pages/the-english-pennine-way-day-4

Onwards to Days 6 and 7 https://duncangoeswalking.squarespace.com/blog-pages/the-english-pennine-way-days-6-and-7