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Day 14 - Garrigill to Alston

Today was a sort of rest day as I only had an easy, short walk of 7.2 km to the town of Alston.

I strolled along a tree-lined section of the River South Tyne at a more leisurely pace for a change. It was a much more pleasant day compared with the previous long ones across moorlands and heath. Over a footbridge and passed Sillyhall farm, I crossed lots of tiny fields and over many stone walls, moving further away from the river. After 2 km, I re-joined it again and thence on to Alston.

The town was celebrating their Gala Day, with many stalls and amusements going on. One of the things I love about the country of my birth was that many old traditions and celebrations that are still lovingly upheld. Some quaint, while others were just plain odd and crazy. Sometimes their origins were easily traced back, but others often lost in the mists of time. These included a few, like "Morris Dancing"; "Tar-barrel Running" in Devon; Cheese-rolling in the Cotswolds, "World Hen Racing Championships" in Derbyshire (dating back over 100 years); "Whittlesea Straw Bear Festival" (dating 200+ years); "Wife Carrying Race" (originating from the Viking invasion of 793AD). You have to love England.

Alston, once a centre for lead-mining, claims to be the highest market town in all of England. It was also the last place, for 67 km, for me to get plenty of supplies. The next decent shops were in Bellingham, two days away.

I had planned to spend a couple of days at Alston but decided that one was enough, and chose to do a very long walk the next day. I wanted to reach the Once Brewed YHA, 39.2 km away. It would mean an early start and a very long day.

Walked 7.2 km, in 1½ hours

Day 15 - Alston to Once Brewed

I managed to get away at 7 am, for my "go-for-it" day. I felt very smug leaving so many other hostelers still snoring their heads off in bed.

Following the River South Tyne again for a while, I crossed onto heather and moorland once more. Passing Harbut Lodge, I crossed a main road to go to Gilderdale Burn. The tiered earthwork remains of an old Roman Fort, Whitley Castle, were still visible as I walked passed them and on towards Castle Nook Farm.

For the next couple of kilometres, I followed a railway line through lovely pastures and over more stone walls. Crossing the railway line at Lintley Farm, and through a small wood, the River South Tyne appeared. It was nice to walk along its bank again and to be surrounded by trees. Then into Slaggyford, a small cluster of houses, but no refreshments!

The track dogged the railway line for a while again before heading away from it at Burnstones. Here I trod on history as I walked along "The Maiden Way", another ancient Roman Road. Going straight as a die for 4 km, it reached the abandoned Lambley Colliery. The Pennine Way route branched off here and into some small woods around Hartley Burn. I had to cross boggy pastures and stumble through tussock grass. It was a little bit boring, I have to say, maybe because I was getting a bit weary!

At Round Hill, the northern end of the Pennine Range, is where the Pennine Way should finish. However, the Way goes on for another 105 km, and on to the Cheviot Way.

Wain Rigg and Black Hill were crossed, through wet tussock, until I hit the road into Greenhead village. I broke my journey here for something to eat and drink. I got there at lunchtime, having covered the 26.5 km from Alston in just 6 hours, which was good going. I called into a pub and had a ploughman’s lunch and a couple of beers (It's important for walkers to keep up their liquids!).

Thirlwell Castle is a 12th-century castle sitting on the banks of the River Tipalt. Strengthening of the castle took place later, using stones from nearby Hadrian's Wall.

I soon approached the wall for the first time, and what an incredible sight it was. I'd never seen it before, and it was a fantastic piece of Roman engineering. The wall is set on a sort of natural geological "wave" of solid rock, riding the crest of it - an excellent choice for a defensive position.

The path ran for many kilometres adjacent to the wall, in a series of very steep descents and steep ascents. After a very long gruelling day, it was brutal on my tired legs and heaving lungs. This section nearly finished me off! However, I've learned never to give up, so I battled on.

**Hadrian’s Wall in Northumberland. Wild thyme in flower on top. © Duncan Smith**

I arrived at "Once Brewed Hostel" just as it opened. Being on the main road, I was horrified to see many cars, and even coaches, parked outside. I hadn't booked ahead as I'd confirmed that it was a "Superior YHA" with plenty of beds and excellent facilities. It seemed more like a hotel than a hostel. Being a solo walker, I didn't think I would have any trouble getting in. However, I was wrong!

Dropping my bag outside, I approached the reception desk and asked for a bed for the night. The warden said they were fully booked and they didn't have a spare bed for me. He told me to carry on to the next hostel, "It's only 10 km away" he said!! Astonished, I gently declared, "Look here, I have already spent 9½ hours walking 40 fucking kilometres, and I'm not going to walk another fucking step!!" That made him reel back!! I also pointed out that, traditionally, the YHA code was that walkers and cyclists ALWAYS had priority over people in cars, buses and coaches. I added, "They can bloody well get back into their cars and drive off to the next hostel and give me their bed instead!!!" I was exhausted, and very grumpy by this time, and wasn't to be fooled with. They found me a bed!!

Walked 39.2 km in 9½ hours (Phew!!)

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